The Rise and Fall of Vans: From Skater Icon to Fashion Relic
By: Eye for Fashion
Once a symbol of cool, counterculture, and California rebellion, Vans were everywhere—from skate parks to high school hallways to early 2010s Tumblr feeds. They were the unassuming badge of authenticity: simple canvas, flat soles, and that iconic waffle grip. But today? In the ever-evolving world of streetwear and sneaker culture, Vans have slipped into the shadows.
From Skate Shop to Street Cred
Founded in 1966 in Anaheim, California, Vans began as a utilitarian shoe designed for skaters who needed grip and durability. By the '70s and '80s, they had become the unofficial footwear of SoCal skate and surf culture—a raw, gritty alternative to polished athletic brands like Nike. The Checkerboard Slip-On, which debuted in the late '70s, quickly became iconic, representing the laid-back, rebellious spirit of skate culture.
Vans' rise into fashion took off in the early 2000s, thanks to punk revivals, emo subcultures, and a newfound love for “authenticity” in streetwear. Everyone from Odd Future to A$AP Rocky laced up a pair, and the Checkerboard Slip-On emerged as a Gen Z moodboard staple, its simple yet bold pattern capturing the essence of individuality and nonchalance. Vans were cool because they didn’t try to be.
But that nonchalance—which had been their hallmark—may have also been their downfall.
Why Vans Never Broke Into High Fashion
Unlike other streetwear staples that evolved—think Nike’s Air Force 1, Adidas’ Samba, or even New Balance 990s—Vans never really changed. And in the high-speed world of fashion, evolution is survival.
Vans stuck to the basics: canvas, rubber, and timeless silhouettes.
But fashion-forward audiences craved innovation—tech fabrics, collabs, cushioning, or futuristic designs.
While others leaned into hype, Vans doubled down on nostalgia.
Ironically, their refusal to adapt—once their strongest selling point—left them behind in an industry obsessed with what’s next.
Today, Vans remain beloved in their niche: skaters, purists, DIY kids. But in the runway-to-streetwear cycle? They’ve become more retro relic than rotation staple.
ASAP Rocky wearing Vans For Collab
What’s Replacing Them on the Streets?
Enter the new era of “ugly-pretty,” nostalgia-drenched, fashion-blessed sneakers:
1. Adidas Sambas
Sleek, versatile, and soccer-chic.
Once a Euro dad shoe, now a downtown darling.
Popularized by celebs like Bella Hadid and worn with everything from cargo pants to maxi skirts.
2. New Balance
The former “dad shoe” brand has made a massive comeback.
Models like the 550 and 9060 are now Gen Z-approved, stylist-endorsed, and paired with oversized fits and technical wear.
Thanks to smart collabs (Aimé Leon Dore, Joe Freshgoods), New Balance has gone from lawn mower to luxury.
3. Asics
The running shoes your uncle wore? Now peak fashion.
Revived through gorpcore, Y2K minimalism, and ultra-functional aesthetics.
ASICS’ GEL-Kayano and GEL-Nimbus lines are everywhere in trend-forward circles.
4. Golden Goose
The anti-sneaker sneaker.
Pre-scuffed, high-priced, and unapologetically Italian.
Loved by influencers who want their streetwear polished with a touch of rebel chic.
The Vans Legacy Lives On—Just Not On the Runway
Vans may no longer be the “it” sneaker, but that doesn’t mean they’ve vanished. Like Dr. Martens or Converse, they now exist in a cultural capsule—a go-to for certain subcultures and nostalgic dressers who value simplicity over trends.
Their decline isn’t a failure—it’s a sign that in a fashion world obsessed with reinvention, staying the same is both admirable… and costly.
Final Laces Tied
In the era of maximalist design, AI-generated collabs, and trend turnover at warp speed, Vans remain grounded—maybe too grounded.
They were never meant to chase trends. But in a world where style is currency, standing still often means fading out.
And maybe that’s okay.
Because not everything has to be haute.
Some things are just home.
